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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This accolade has left the family totally astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” says the family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their small restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.